Poor Merlot – it really has had its ups and downs. Back in the 90’s it was the go to red wine, once everyone got burned out with Cabernet Sauvignon. California wineries could not cultivate the vines fast enough. In this rush to market, a lot of really flacid, boring Merlot was produced. Perhaps the nadir was the movie, Sideways. The main character was willing to risk a date with a girl way out of his league if going out with her meant he had to drink Merlot.
The Wine Witch is happy to report that she has discovered a Merlot with personality – the 2005 Aquinas Napa Valley Merlot. The Aquinas label comes under the Three Loose Screws brands which in turn is part of Don Sebastiani & Sons – a complicated but excellent pedigree. If you like big reds with reasonable tannins, this is a good pick at $12.
The color is a deep red and the first sniff reveals blackberries and cocoa. It is a full-bodied wine with several layers of flavor and a fairly long finish. In the mouth, the first cocoa impression becomes more of a dark chocalate or mocha because thee is definitely a coffee note. The fruit flavors are blackberries and wild strawberries and towards the end there is a pleasant herb thing going on – thyme? sage? There is a bit of lumber, but it is closer to cedar than oak.
The 2005 Aquinas Merlot would really complement smoky flavors – smoked cheeses, grilled meats. The touch of herbiness would also lend itself to a straightforward, Americana Thanksgiving.
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A merlot really has to be special for me to even bother. I find most to be so boring and sometimes metallic. This one does sound interesting though. Thanks as always, Wine Witch, for the info.